Dior mania and K-Pop take over menswear from Paris Fashion Week

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PARIS – Dior mania descended on Paris Fashion Week menswear on Friday as more than a thousand screaming fans thronged the beautiful Place de la Concorde for a glimpse of their favorite stars, some nearly risking their lives in the circulation.

Guardians of the show’s VIP guests, including David Beckham, Naomi Campbell and Korean BTS band members J-Hope and Jimin, navigated the crowd like salmon swimming upstream.

Inside, Dior menswear designer Kim Jones paid tribute to Yves Saint Laurent, who became the world’s youngest designer at 21 in 1957 when Christian Dior died.

Here are some highlights of the fall-winter 2023-2024 collections:

In 1958, Saint Laurent unveiled its first collection for Christian Dior. It was a global event that saw the creator attract thousands and thousands of screaming fans who took to the avenues. Some things never change, even in 65 years.

Kim Jones used this womenswear collection as inspiration for her menswear – reflecting her contrasts between masculine and feminine and British tailoring versus tailoring.

Jones also captured her fluidity to produce a gender-neutral display with softened shapes and loose waistlines. Unbuttoned suits that unfolded drew a nice A-line silhouette, as did smart white knit sweaters with sleeves cut to fold down like a poncho.

Jones did his homework. In the early days of Saint Laurent, he abandoned the cinched waists and long fabrics of Dior in favor of more fluid shapes in which the body disappeared, thus inventing the trapeze silhouette.

Some Jones styles, like an updated sailor top, were pulled straight from the 1958 archives.

But this sublime spectacle was much more than a simple tribute. The three-dimensional printed shoes followed the contemporary sheer organza vests with tiered banding and looked both aggressive and feminine. The off-the-shoulder cut over an embellished beaded coat simultaneously evoked a loose rebel and an opening flower.

THE STARS OF DIOR, THE THESPIANNES

The unique fusion of fame, artistry, hysteria, beauty and fluttering perfume at the Dior show simply overwhelmed the senses. It all started with remarkable filmed performances by actors Gwendoline Christie and Robert Pattinson reciting excerpts of poetry, interspersed with images from the Dior collection.

“I’m really, really happy to be here at the Dior show,” Christie told AP. “It’s no surprise that Kim Jones is one of our greatest living current designers that we have. I’m also very lucky because he’s a very old friend of mine.

But even the cool Christie, star of the Dior show and ‘Game of Thrones’, seemed upset when reporters ditched her in a split second upon the arrival of BTS’s Jimin, who was recently named the brand’s ambassador. Dior brand.

PAUL SMITH CHANGES THE CENTURY

Smith delved into the history books for a thoughtful exhibit that seemed to merge 1970s London with the city of the 1870s.

A quilted coat with a plaid cape demonstrates this perfectly. It flared out at the back as if it had been fashioned in Baker Street and could have been worn by Sherlock Holmes if it had come with a pipe.

Elsewhere, a high white collar had a primitive 19th century feel, while a dark velvet coat with a large collar sported a nice textured thickness.

Such old-fashioned daydreaming gave Fall/Winter a more austere style than usual, but it was a welcome change.

The 1970s, Smith’s touchstone, were also on full display. The designs included puffy plaid coats, bright blue printed pants, and loose colored suits with wide, rounded shoulders.

The best looks were those that merged the two eras, like a loose cerulean trench coat with voluminous layers, paired with a striped blue silk scarf.

Flashes of bright color and cheeky quirkiness infused Rushemy Botter and Lisi Herrebrugh’s fabulous mixed fall fare.

If there was a dominant theme in Botter’s always creative and eccentric show, it was surely chance.

A blue bikini was humorously sewn onto a shimmering satin shirt dress. The outer layer of a suit jacket has peeled away to reveal a snakeskin-like underlay. A mermaid look featured a salmon print on a tight waistcoat reaching down to a wavy metallic satin skirt “tail”. A neon pink knit sweater placed on the front of another sweater was probably an ironic jab at how cold it has been in Paris lately.

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